This article first appeared in the July/August 2006 issue of International Sheepdog News.

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If combining sheepdog trialling with a journey to a panoramic corner of the British Isles appeals, then an obvious destination is the Hebridean Islands in July. The Western Isles, or Outer Hebrides, are a chain of over 200 islands to the west of Northern Scotland, stretching 130 miles and appearing from the mainland as a long series of hilltops on the horizon. The Hebridean Circuit consists of seven trials held on various islands in the second week of July. This week is busy for triallers all over the country, apart from local trials, there is the Champion of Champions at the Great Yorkshire Show, the Gilpa Open Trial in West Wales, and last year, the Tullamore World Trial. Travelling so far north is not everybody’s cup of tea, so the Hebridean Circuit is not likely to get oversubscribed with competitors, maintaining a comfortable balance between the islanders, the regular mainlanders and triallers from further afield. Sheepdog trials have been held on the Hebrides since the 1950s, there used to be more trials but the number of island competitors has lessened over the years. The Hebridean Circuit has been taking place annually for about thirty years, so the islanders know how to put on good sheepdog trials. A trophy for the handler and dog with the highest aggregate score in the seven trials leads to friendly rivalry between the islanders and the mainlanders. There is a fair-minded approach to the selection of judges, the regular mainlanders doing their share of the judging.
It is a long drive to Scotland, beyond the Scottish Borders, past Loch Lomond, through Ben Nevis and Glen Coe country to Fort William, along several lochs and finally to Skye. Driving over the bridge from the Kyle of Lochalsh to Skye, with Gaelic music on the radio, adds a surreal edge to the experience making it a memorable journey. Driving around Skye, you cannot tell if the water lying in front of you (amidst the towering landscape), is a sea loch or an inland loch. Or if the land the other side of the water, is joined to the land you are on or whether it is an island. Consulting a map gives clarification, there are many sea lochs on the route taken around to where the first Skye trial is to be held at Waternish Point. The Skye landscape is bleak but engaging, necessitating stops to capture the views on film: there are the Macleod’s Tables, other high mountains, stony beaches, barren landscapes, in addition to the picturesque green crofts. There are Highland cattle, Galloways, Scottish Blackfaces, Cheviots, as well as the smaller Island varieties of livestock, including ponies. The Island hospitality received on Skye is second to none, the bed & breakfast establishments having looked after many sheepdog triallers over the years.
The first trial on the circuit is held on the Saturday on Skye at Waternish Point. Turning off the A850 and driving on the B886 around Loch Bay reaches the trial on the left of the road, set in stunning scenery with an eye catching background of mountains and sea. This trial has attracted triallers on their way to the Hebridean Circuit for several years now but did not gain aggregate points until this year. There is a long gather in the flat uneven field to pick up the fresh well-built strong Cheviot ewes that vary in their ability to stay at the post, improving as they get used to the dogs. Dogs need to get hold of them and take them around the course, to show them where the gates are. There is a relaxed atmosphere with a friendly welcome from the host, Mark Broughton, making the trial very enjoyable.
The trial free day on Sunday makes time for a leisurely journey from Skye to North Uist, the ferry leaving from Uig to cross the Minch and the Sea of the Hebrides to arrive at Lochmaddy. Arriving on North Uist, the idyllic scenery is set in silence, with plenty of sandy white beaches with turquoise waters located in attractive bays, ideal for walking the dogs. There is no heavy traffic on the single track roads interspersed with passing places. The weather at this time of the year is usually sunny and mild, perfect for dog trialling, not too hot and not too cold, though it has been known to get very hot in some years. The Monday trial involves a journey along the A865 from Lochmaddy, with a right turn down the B893 past the Newton Ferry terminal and across Otternish Point to Berneray, a beautiful island.

Berneray's beautiful fields full of wild flowers.

Bear left on Bernaray, rather than right, to find the trial. A short walk from the trial field takes you to the ‘machair’, a long established land full of wild flowers - marigolds, poppies, yellow violas, buttercups, small and large daisies, and forget me nots. The views of scenic homesteads surrounded by green croft land alternate with open spaces that are rocky and barren. It is so delightful, the views imprinting on the mind forever, sights such as a lucky glimpse of an early morning scene of a shepherd and his dog moving a flock of sheep across the sandy bay before the tide comes back in (see front cover picture). The North Uist Agricultural Society, in particular Neil MacAskell, hosts the trial and makes everyone very welcome. The field is long and flat, and the course challenging. The sheep are a mixed flock, turned out in packets of four of similar type, rotating a bunch of Scottish Blackfaces with lighter Cheviot cross ewes, some with horns, some without. The latter can be tricky to handle, providing the inevitable challenge of working unfamiliar sheep.
Tuesday involves a ferry ride from Otternish Point to the Isle of Harris. Diving birds and porpoises are known to accompany the ferry, and it is easy to think that you have caught a glance of a porpoise amongst the choppy waves. It may be a figment of the imagination. On landing, the A859 takes you to the Scarista trial, found on the left on the roadside. Scarista has a long sandy beach just over from the trial field, with sand dunes, wild Atlantic waves and views over to the Island of Taransay. The trial is a village affair, with food available and craft stalls selling their wares. Again, the field is long and flat, with challenging bunches of croft sheep to arrange (or derange) the triallers into prize winners. The next stage of the journey is lengthy, travelling on the A859 over the Isle of Harris to Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis. The rocky landscape of Harris, interspersed with pools of water lilies, is in complete contrast to the bleak moorland of Lewis. There is a choice of taking the A858 and proceeding clockwise to the next venue at Shawbost (benefiting from the panoramic views over the East Loch Roag and visiting the Standing Stones at Callanish), or going anti clockwise along the A857 (with a turnoff up to the sandy beach at Tolsta Head) and turning right onto the A858. Going one way and coming back the other seems a good arrangement, permitting the enjoyment of the maximum amount of Lewis’s countryside.

Tommy McPhee penning at Shawbost

The Wednesday trial at Shawbost involves much camaraderie between the visiting mainlanders and the islanders. The course is usually on a very rocky field, the rocks underfoot making it tricky to shed without falling over. There is a lively mix of croft sheep, Scottish Blackfaces and Swale crosses. Mid-trial is a compulsory stop for lunch, most folk heading to a nearby hotel, definitely to be recommended. By now, you are getting to know the dogs and any unfamiliar handlers. Over lunch, there is more opportunity to socialise and get to grips with some of the names of the local crofters who make the circuit such a memorable experience, hoping not to miss anyone out: Donald MacRitchie (Circuit co-ordinator), Alex MacDonald (Convenor of the Western Isles Council, and the main organiser of the trial at Shawbost), Alasdair MacDonald (Ness), Angus MacArthur (Back), Calum MacDonald (Shawbost, running Bill and Jess, by his 1995 Reserve Scottish National Champion Mick), J H Macleod (Crowlista), Murdo Murray (from Back, and Circuit winner 2004 with Garry), and in particular, J N Macdonald (from Carloway, running Sally).
The Thursday trial is held at Ness where it will be the 28th trial this year, along the A858 and turning on to the A857 to get to the most northern tip of Lewis. Outlined by small grey houses, the field is full of wild flowers. Flocks of seagulls can settle on the field looking like sheep to the outrunning dogs, and hearing can be affected by the fierce Atlantic wind. The sheep are mainly Scottish Blackface ewes with the occasional bunch of Cheviots. It is advisable to take the breathtaking journey back down to Tarbert on Harris the same day, ready for the early ferry ride back to Skye. Definitely book accommodation well in advance as Tarbert is full up pre ferry journeys at this time of year.
The Friday trial is a real hill trial at KC MacKinnon’s farm in Bernisdale on Skye. From Uig, travel down the A87 and turn right on to the A850. KC’s farm is to be found on the left in Bernisdale, announced by a colourful signboard of a man working sheepdogs. The trial is held on moorland on top of the hill, flat but rough, surrounded by more hills with long distance views over a loch. All facilities are provided, including a Fergie to tow you on and off the rough terrain, should that be required. The trial has a challenging long gather, whichever way it is held, and there is immense satisfaction if your dog gets the sheep. Once gathered, the Cheviots are responsive to the dogs and go around the course well. The fetch merges into a drive with posts to guide the long way around to the pen, with the last sheep needing to be singled.
On the Saturday, the last trial on the circuit is at Dunvegan on Skye (on the A863, about 4 miles out of Dunvegan on a sports field near Roskill). The gatekeeper at Dunvegan is fully attired in a red kilt and green wellies, with three West Highland Terriers in tow, providing a traditional Scottish welcome. The field has a tricky gather, with tricky sheep. John Angus Macleod won a third place at Dunvegan when he was seventeen in 1947, and described himself ‘as proud as punch’. Now the Circuit winner in 2005, he describes himself as a ‘seasoned old cod’.
There is another trial on the Saturday, at Gairloch on the Scottish mainland. The long trip from Skye to Gairloch is well worth it, to find a trial that requires dogs to think where they are going, to find gaps to allow them to gather up a steep hill through gorse bushes, to find the flighty sheep. The fetch is straight down the hill, needing brakes on the sheep, to the flat field at the bottom for the remainder of the course. The competition is fierce, with good prize money, and a different bunch of competitors, lots of mainlanders.
It would be amiss not to reveal some of the regular supporters of the Hebridean Circuit: in particular, John Templeton, Peter & Molly Hetherington (Minishant), Neil MacEachern (Kennacraig), Hugh Johnstone (Fyvie), Tommy MacPhee (Wick), Hugh Munro (Leys Castle), J MacDiarmid (Carbost on Skye), Bill Morrison (Shetland Isles), Bob Ritchie (Aberdeen), Kathy Freeman and John Angus Macleod (Killin), John McCloughlin (Fort William), Alan MacDonald, Jimmy Lamont (Portree on Skye) and Bob Simpson (Duchlage near Crieff in Perthshire). From Northern Ireland, there is Arthur Mawhinney from Ladyhill in Antrim where he farms 250 breeding ewes, Lleyns and Dorsets, on 150 acres. Arthur is a regular competitor and judge on the Hebridean Circuit, much enjoying the trip every time he goes. Not wanting to miss a year, he was Course Director on Field 2 at the Tullamore World Trial and travelled straight to the Hebrideans afterwards. His travelling companion was Joyce Grier from the USA, who ran at the World Trial. Joyce is rumoured to be returning to the Circuit to enjoy the trialling. Arthur’s previous travelling companions were Aidan Gallagher and his son Michael from Armoy in Co. Antrim. Michael won his first open on the circuit and went on to represent Ireland as a Young Handler at the International in 2005. There may be sightings of English triallists: Alf Kyme (Lancashire), Sandy Beaton (Yorkshire), Val Powell (Northamptonshire), John Aldridge, Gerry Foster and Matt Watson, and Dick Roper (potentially, this year). Tommy Brownrigg from Newbiggin has made many trips to the Hebridean Trial Circuit since 1988, he stays with good friends that he made many years ago.

Winner of the 2005 Championship of the Isles, Murdo Murray from Lewis with Craig & Gary.

The pace of life on the Hebridean Islands is slow, the trialling schedule introducing an element of purpose to the trip. Though there is time to enjoy the countryside, drives around the islands and walks along perfect white beaches, the only regret on leaving the Islands is that there is not enough time to explore other places there. South Uist is a long island, rocky on the east, with a twenty mile sandy beach on the west side. There is a great deal of variety on the Islands, with much for the eye to take in, making them well worth visiting. The locals are friendly, encompassing qualities from life of long ago and from modern times. The landscape is varied, with its own unique flora and fauna, in particular the carpets of wild flowers on the machair. Whilst the trials are not strictly pre entry, it is best to notify the Circuit Co-ordinators: KC MacKinnon (tel. 01470 532331) and Donald MacRitchie (Tel. 01851 810579), if you intend to trial on the circuit so that the trials committees are aware of the numbers of dogs. Plus, they are a good source of useful information. A tip when booking bed & breakfast is to stick with the native Islanders, you seem to get more for your money. The Hebridean Circuit is an ideal way to see the Islands and enjoy trialling at the same time, each trip being an unforgettable encounter with a truly remarkable place.